We did a little backflip of joy when we read trend forecaster Li Edelkoort’s Anti_Fashion manifesto on Dezeen blog last week. It was saying everything COSSAC believe in as an eco-fashion brand and affirming our assumptions of how the fast fashion industry is on it’s way to be replaced by creative and inspired fashion pioneers.
The manifesto outlines why she believes the fashion industry "is going to implode", and we couldn’t be happier to be part of the revolution.
So what is all the fuss about then? Well, like Li, we believe that the traditional fashion industry is slowly dying a death as new and independent brands are sprinting ahead using innovative ways to connect with their customers and run their brands as more than just a profit seeking business but as creative, responsible stand alone designers.
Li’s Anti_Fashion manifesto highlights 10 key areas that are under a state of rapid change in society as consumers also change in their perception of fashion. Her main prediction is that we about to experience a “rise of the couture” as consumers turn back to “labours of love” and once again covet individually crafted garments unlike the replicated garments we find on the high street and with luxury fashion brands.
The entire Anti_Fashion manifesto is worth a read for any fashion enthusiast but here are our favourite quotes from each of Li’s key points:
[On student training] "To become catwalk designers, highly individual stars and divas, to be discovered by luxury brands.”
"As a result the fashion world is still working in a 20th-century mode, celebrating the individual, elevating the it-people, developing the exception... in a society hungry for consensus and altruism.”
"This places fashion out of society and de facto makes it old-fashioned."
[On the trend for leaner manufacturing processes] “Rapid and sordid restructuring process, which has seen production leave the western world to profit from and exploit low-wage countries."
"Now that several garments are offered cheaper than a sandwich we all know and feel that something is profoundly and devastatingly wrong.”
"Prices profess that these clothes are to be thrown away, discarded as a condom and forgotten before being loved and savoured, teaching young consumers that fashion has no value. The culture of fashion is thus destroyed."
"Luxury designers are requested by the brand's marketing to focus on product and need to give most of their creative energy to bags and shoes and are rather resigned concerning the creation of clothes.”
"It is without doubt the perversion of marketing that ultimately has helped kill the fashion industries.”
"Initially invented to be a science, blending forecasting talent with market results to anchor strategies for the future, it has gradually become a network of fearful guardians of brands, slaves to financial institutions, hostages of shareholder interests, a group that long ago lost the autonomy to direct change."
[On magazine ads] “So repetitive and seem so much alike that it is rather difficult to read the various brand values.”
"The same clothes, more or less, are used in the editorials that are heavily art directed by the economy of advertisements; a new brand has little to no chance to be featured."
Press and Blogging:
"The genial humour and knowledge of some of the best fashion journalists of international newspapers is rapidly replaced by uninteresting generalizations by a younger generation, articles that are opinion pages instead of critical assessment from a professional point of view."
"We are struggling with out-dated formats that do not correspond anymore to todays fluid consumers, able to browse high and low, city and country, airport and hotel, on line and in real time."
"The consumers of today and tomorrow are going to choose for themselves, creating and designing their own wardrobes"
"They will share clothes amongst each other since ownership doesn't mean a thing anymore. They will rent clothes, lend clothes, transform clothes and find clothes on the streets."
"Clothes will become the answer to our industries' prayers. Clothes will dominate trends for the future. Therefore let's celebrate clothes."
COSSAC high five to all the above and to the lady herself!